Yleinen

Abaddon – grey dress

For my first post I shall write a little about the dress that took me a year to finish (thanks to procrastination). But it was worth it to take the time and go slow.

I am also a SPN fan. Not a particulary obsessed fan, but fan nonetheless. I also loved Queen Abaddon in her grey dress. Why? This dress could also work outside cosplay, which is something that I really like! And because I accidentally found a grey fabric that would be perfect for the dress.

Breakdown of the dress.

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Wide V-neck collar with a wide waistband. The waistband has a rise between the boobies. Gathering under the boobs. Couldn’t find a good picture, but the lenght is over the knee. Hem is wide. Considering the wrinkling on the waistband, I’m not sure there is a support fabric inserted between the top and lining fabrics.

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The dress has a zipper on the back. The wide hem almoust looks like it’s pleated, but it’s just how the fabric folds on the gorgeus Alaina Huffman. In the show I saw a glimpse of a petticoat/slip under the dress, but it does not give any fullness to the hem.

After a quick internet search and reading about what other’s had used for pattern, I found out that the dress is almoust a direct copy of Vogue V8727 pattern, model E. So, I ordered the pattern. I hate cutting up patterns directly from  the paper, because bodies change and I might one day wish to use the pattern again, so I actually ironed the patterns straight and used a pattern copy paper. I’m really glad I made the extra effort with the pattern, because now I still have the original pattern intact and it was so much easier to draw the pattern out after I had ironed out the wrinkles.

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Important step: Always fit your patterns first. Please excuse the papers on the floor, we had just gotten a puppy and were in the middle of house training. And the only mirror big enough to take pictures with is in the bedroom. As you can see I went with the ankle lenght hem, instead of the over the knee lenght the dress in the show has.

Side note: I love the silhuette the pattern paper creates.

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Cut the fabric and pinned the top together to see if it needed some adjusting before I cut the lining fabric. This is one of those “Don’t take a deep breath” moments, as there’s enough needles in close contact with your skin to make an acupuncturist feel quesy.

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Most of the top is done at this point. The collar has been finished, the waistband has strenghtening material insterted in between the fabrics. I was worried that the wrinkles would be permanent, but they smoothed out during the process.

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After I finished the side seams of the top, it was time to assemble the hem. I placed a ruffled petticoat under the hem to get a nice lift on the skirt. This was also a point when I had to pull the skirt a little tighter in side seams. I had adjusted the fit of the top, so the seams didn’t match on the skirt. Luckily it was an easy adjustment.

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Hem has been sewn to the top. What’s left in this point is to attach the zipper to the back, attach the bottom hem of the lining to the dress by hand, and hand stitch the hem. Aaaaaaand you can spot some puppy damage on my duvet. In a fitting after this image I realized that the shoulders were too long and the dress sat awkwardly low on my body. DRAT! All those fittings and in this point I notice a major flaw. Being a procrastinator, tearing most of the dress appart to fix it was way too big a deal, so I went for a shortcut; folded 2cm off the shoulder and sewed them in. Fixed.

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Just some fooling around to while test trying.

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And here’s the finished dress in all it’s Queenly glory. In the close-up you can just spot the folds on the shoulders. The dress also has hidden pockets in the side seams that can fit a smartphone. All in all, I am really proud of this dress, even if it took so long to make.

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Material: Rayon/wool blend, top lined with silk.
Pattern: Vogue patterns v8727.
Both hand- and machine sewed.
Work hours: non counted.

PS. If you wish to see me twirling in the dress, check my tumblr post: Abaddon grey dress tumblr post

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