Work in progress · Yleinen

Turquoise stretch dress WIP

What can I say, I love dresses. Especially with flowy hems you can twirl in. My body’s 2 different sizes, so I can’t wear pencil skirts because once I get them up my rump, the waist is WAY too big. Ok, enough of that.

Now that I finally finished the Abaddon dress, I came across a pattern in Suuri Käsityö magazine, that really hit my sweet spots. Sorry about the image capture.

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I loved it. I had to make it. But I’m also worried how this will turn out. Because it reguires sewing in stretch fabric. I haven’t sewn anything stretchy in this scale. I never managed to figure it out in the past, so I’ve been sticking with non-stretch fabrics or fabrics that have very minimal stretch in them. But I think I need to learn, so I’m taking the bull by the horns and hoping I won’t screw it up. And that my devil of a machine will not bit me in the arse.

In the next image I answer a little to the rant about having a body that’s two sizes:

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Yup, my chest is EU size 38, while my rump is 42. BTW, waist was exactly between 40 and 42, so I’m literally all over that scale. I’m also 8cm shorter than the person this pattern was modelled to. My first battle with every project is always adjusting the pattern for fit. This is why you should never skip fitting the pattern. Maybe one day I’ll fight to make myself a fitted pencil skirt, but one thing at a time.

Because the skirt is wide I decided to go with size 40 and insert fabric to the skirt if needed. This would also mean I wouldn’t have so much to take in on the top.

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Here’s the pattern cut out and on Dolly. It actually fitted quite nice on me too. Because Dolly is a little more flat bossomed than me, I put my push up bra on it to give it a more ample bossom.

Fabric is also cut, but I might already made a boo-boo. I’m not sure if I understand the cutting instruction correctly, but I’m trying to work with it. To add to my problems with sewing with stretch, I also have a problem understanding written instructions. I work well if there’s pictures. Fingers crossed!

Pattern: Suuri Käsityö 6-7/2017 magazine, pattern no 11

3 thoughts on “Turquoise stretch dress WIP

  1. If you are going to be sewing jersey on a regular sewing machine, you need to try and reduce thread tension as far as the machine will allow you, otherwise your stitches will snap as the jersey stretches. This means to reduce bobbin tension first, then adjust top tension until you get a good stitch. But many machines won’t even form stitches under low tension, so the difficulty is to remember how to set it back again for non-stretch fabrics. Some people keep a separate bobbin case for stretch and one for non-stretch with different settings, and write down what number to set on the upper tension for each bobbin case. Alternatively you can sew with a 4-thread overlock seam (NOT the 2-thread chain stitch!), but that is not a very strong seam in my opinion. Most “stretch stitch” sewing machine stitches are too dense for jersey and will stretch out and damage it, but it depends on the machine.
    If you’re interested, I have a post about various stitches that stretch with the jersey: https://vintagesewingmachinesblog.wordpress.com/2017/05/09/stitches-that-stretch-with-your-jersey/.
    Good luck!

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  2. Oh, and remember to use jersey needles, a.k.a. ball point! And if your fabric is a micro-knit, you may be better off with “stretch” or “super-stretch” needles. They are all subtly different – the right needle will sew beautifully, while the wrong one will skip stitches and may even rip your fabric! (This happened to me.)

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